How Credit Scores Affect your Kentucky Mortgage Loan Approval Chances


A lot of Kentucky homebuyers are hesitant about having their credit pulled because they think it will go down, whereas in most cases, scores are really the same with most Kentucky mortgage lenders. Below I will try to explain to you what mortgage lenders use for credit qualifying scores and why you may have a different credit score and why some lenders may require a higher score than other lenders.
Lastly, each lender must pull their own credit report and cannot use another lender’s credit report or the consumer’s credit report. I will explain the reasoning below. 
Does shopping around for a mortgage hurt my credit?

No. Within a 45-day window, multiple credit checks from mortgage lenders are recorded on your credit report as a single inquiry. This is because other lenders realize that you are only going to buy one home. 

The impact on your credit is the same no matter how many lenders you consult, as long as the last credit check is within 45 days of the first credit check. Even if a lender needs to check your credit after the 45-day window is over, shopping around is usually still worth it. The effect of an additional inquiry is small, while shopping around for the best deal can save you a lot of money in the long run.

Why do some mortgage lenders require a certain credit score whereas other mortgage lenders may not?

One Word Mortgage Overlays.

Some Kentucky Mortgage lenders will institute a higher credit score than the minimum below to lessen their risk of having to buy the loan back from the government agencies if they get too many mortgage defaults. In order to protect their lending portfolio and hedging their risk, they will require say a 640 credit score or higher for a FHA loan, whereas the guidelines clearly state you can do a FHA loan with a minimum credit score of 580 To understand mortgage overlays, it helps to have a foundation of how the mortgage approval process works. Mortgage lenders always have underwriting guidelines—standards to determine the amount and terms you qualify for.

The credit score minimum guidelines for mortgage programs such as FHA, VA, or USDA are crucial factors to consider when applying for a home loan. Each program has its own set of requirements, with the FHA, for instance, having distinct guidelines that applicants must meet. These guidelines are typically based on the specific program’s criteria and are important for potential homebuyers to understand in order to assess their eligibility for the respective mortgage programs. Understanding these credit score minimum guidelines is essential for individuals seeking to navigate the process of securing a mortgage and purchasing a home.

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Credit Scores for Kentucky Mortgages

What score does the Mortgage Lender Use? Why may it be different than the one you are seeing?

The reason mortgage lenders use older FICO Scores is because they don’t have a choice. They are essentially forced to use them.

For a bank to sell a mortgage to Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac, FHA VA, USDA, Etc, the loan has to meet certain guidelines. Some of these guidelines require borrowers to have a minimum credit score under specific FICO Score generations.

If you’re planning to apply for a mortgage, be aware that the credit score you see on your application might differ slightly from the one you’re used to.

It might even be different than what comes up when you monitor your credit, or even when you apply for a car loan.

Banks use a slightly different credit score model when evaluating mortgage applicants. Below, we go over what you need to know about credit scores you’re looking to buy a home.

The scoring model used in mortgage applications

While the FICO® 8 model is the most widely used scoring model for general lending decisions, banks use the following FICO scores when you apply for a mortgage:

FICO® Score 2 (Experian)
FICO® Score 5 (Equifax)
FICO® Score 4 (TransUnion)

As you can see, each of the three main credit bureaus (Equifax, Experian and TransUnion) use a slightly different version of the industry-specific FICO Score. That’s because FICO tweaks and tailors its scoring model to best predict the creditworthiness for different industries and bureaus. You’re still evaluated on the same core factors (payment history, credit use, credit mix and age of your accounts), but the categories are weighed a little bit differently.

The FICO 8 model is known for being more critical of high balances on revolving credit lines. Since revolving credit is less of a factor when it comes to mortgages, the FICO 2, 4 and 5 models, which put less emphasis on credit utilization, have proven to be reliable when evaluating good candidates for a mortgage.

Mortgage lenders pull all three reports, from all three bureaus, but they only use one when making their final decision.

“A bank will use all three bureaus,”— “It’s called a tri-merge.”

If all three of your scores are the same, then their choice is simple. But what if your scores are different?

And if you are applying for a mortgage with another person, such as your spouse or partner, each applicant’s FICO 2, 4 and 5 scores are pulled. The bank identifies the median score for both parties, then uses the lowest of the final two.

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Joel Lobb  Mortgage Loan Officer

American Mortgage Solutions, Inc.
10602 Timberwood Circle
Louisville, KY 40223
Company NMLS ID #1364

Text/call: 502-905-3708
fax: 502-327-9119
email:
 kentuckyloan@gmail.com

http://www.mylouisvillekentuckymortgage.com/

What credit score do you need for a mortgage?

What credit score do you need for a mortgage in Kentucky for FHA, VA, USDA and Fannie Mae Home Loans?


There’s no universal minimum credit score needed for a mortgage, but a better credit score will give you more options.

If you’re trying to get a mortgage, your credit score matters. Mortgage lenders use credit scores — as well as other information — to assess your likelihood of repaying a loan on time.

Because credit scores are so important, lenders set minimum scores you must have in order to qualify for a mortgage with them. Minimum credit score varies by lender and mortgage type, but generally, a higher score means better loan terms for you.

Let’s look at which loan types are best for different credit scores.

Credit score needed to buy a house

Mortgage lending is risky, and lenders want a way to quantify that risk. They use your three-digit credit score to gauge the risk of loaning you money since your credit score helps predict your likelihood of paying back a loan on time. Lenders also consider other data, such as your income, employment, debts and assets to decide whether to offer you a loan.

Different lenders and loan types have different borrower requirements, loan terms and minimum credit scores. Here are the requirements for some of the most common types of mortgages.

Conventional loan

Minimum credit score: 620

A conventional loan is a mortgage that isn’t backed by a federal agency. Most mortgage lenders offer conventional loans, and many lenders sell these loans to Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac — two government-sponsored enterprises. Conventional loans can have either fixed or adjustable rates, and terms ranging from 10 to 30 years.

You can get a conventional loan with a down payment as low as 3% of the home’s purchase price, so this type of loan makes sense if you don’t have enough for a traditional down payment. However, if your down payment is less than 20%, you’re required to pay for private mortgage insurance (PMI), which is an insurance policy designed to protect the lender if you stop making payments. You can ask your servicer to cancel PMI once the principal balance of your mortgage falls below 80% of the original value of your home.

FHA loan

Minimum credit score (10% down): 500

Minimum credit score (3.5% down): 580

FHA loans are backed by the Federal Housing Administration (FHA), a part of the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD). The FHA incentivizes lenders to make mortgage loans available to borrowers who might not otherwise qualify by guaranteeing the federal government will repay the mortgage if the borrower stops making payments. This makes an FHA loan a good option if you have a lower credit score.

FHA loans come in 15- or 30-year terms with fixed interest rates. Unlike conventional mortgages, which only require PMI for borrowers with less than 20% down, all FHA borrowers must pay an up-front mortgage insurance premium (MIP) and an annual MIP, as long as the loan is outstanding.

VA loan

Minimum credit score: N/A

VA loans are mortgages backed by the U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs (VA). The VA guarantees loans made by VA-approved lenders to qualifying veterans or service members of the U.S. armed forces, or their spouses. This type of loan is a great option for veterans and their spouses, especially if they don’t have the best credit and don’t have enough for a down payment.

VA loans are fixed-rate mortgages with 10-, 15-, 20- or 30-year terms.

Most VA loans don’t require a down payment or monthly mortgage insurance premiums. However, they do require a one-time VA funding fee, that ranges from 1.4% to 3.6% of the loan amount.

USDA loan

Minimum credit score: N/A

The U.S. Department of Agriculture guarantees loans for borrowers interested in buying homes in certain rural areas. USDA loans don’t require a minimum down payment, but you have to meet the USDA’s income eligibility limits, which vary by location.

All USDA mortgages have fixed interest rates and 30-year repayment terms.

USDA-approved lenders must pay an up-front guarantee fee of up to 3.5% of the purchase price to the USDA. That fee can be passed on to borrowers and financed into the home loan. If the home you want to buy is within an eligible rural area (defined by the USDA) and you meet the other requirements, this could be a great loan option for you.

What else do mortgage lenders consider?

Your credit score isn’t the only factor lenders consider when reviewing your loan application. Here are some of the other factors lenders use when deciding whether to give you a mortgage.

  • Debt-to-income ratio — Your debt-to-income (DTI) ratio is the amount of debt payments you make each month (including your mortgage payments) relative to your gross monthly income. For example, if your mortgage payments, car loan and credit card payments add up to $1,800 per month and you have a $6,000 monthly income, your debt-to-income ratio would be $1,800/$6,000, or 30%. Most conventional mortgages require a DTI ratio no greater than 36%. However, you may be approved with a DTI up to 45% if you meet other requirements.
  • Employment history — When you apply for a mortgage, lenders will ask for proof of employment — typically two years’ worth of W-2s and tax returns, as well as your two most recent pay stubs. Lenders prefer to work with people who have stable employment and consistent income.
  • Down payment — Putting money down to buy a home gives you immediate equity in the home and helps to ensure the lender recoups their loss if you stop making payments and they need to foreclose on the home. Most loans — other than VA and USDA loans — require a down payment of at least 3%, although a higher down payment could help you qualify for a lower interest rate or make up for other less-than-ideal aspects of your mortgage application.
  • The home’s value and condition — Lenders want to ensure the home collateralizing the loan is in good condition and worth what you’re paying for it. Typically, they’ll require an appraisal to determine the home’s value and may also require a home inspection to ensure there aren’t any unknown issues with the property.

How is your credit score calculated?

Most talk of credit scores makes it sound as if you have only one score. In fact, you have several credit scores, and they may be used by different lenders and for different purposes.

The three national credit bureaus — Experian, Equifax and TransUnion — collect information from banks, credit unions, lenders and public records to formulate your credit score. The most common and well-known scoring model is the FICO Score, which is based on the following five factors:

  • Payment history (35%) — A history of late payments will drag your score down, as will negative information from bankruptcies, foreclosures, repossessions or accounts referred to collections.
  • How much you owe (30%) — Your credit utilization ratio is the amount of revolving credit you’re using compared to your total available credit. For example, if you have one credit card with a $2,000 balance and a $4,000 credit limit, your credit utilization ratio is 50%. Credit scoring models view using a larger percentage of your available credit as risky behavior, so high balances and maxed-out credit cards will negatively impact your score.
  • Length of credit history (15%) — This factor considers the age of your oldest account, newest account and the average age of all your credit accounts. In general, the longer you’ve been using credit responsibly, the higher your score will be.
  • Types of accounts (10%) — Credit scoring models favor people who use a mix of credit cards, installment loans, mortgages and other types of credit.
  • Recent credit history (10%) — Lenders view applying for and opening several new credit accounts within a short period as a sign of financial trouble and it’ll negatively impact your score.

Ready to shop around for a mortgage?

Joel Lobb
Mortgage Loan Officer

Individual NMLS ID #57916

American Mortgage Solutions, Inc.
10602 Timberwood Circle
Louisville, KY 40223
Company NMLS ID #1364

Text/call: 502-905-3708

email: kentuckyloan@gmail.com

https://kentuckyloan.blogspot.com/

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, Title 18, United States Code, §§ 2510-2521. This e-mail and any attached files are deemed privileged and confidential, and are intended solely for the use of the individual(s) or entity to whom this e-mail is addressed. If you are not one of the named recipient(s) or believe that you have received this message in error, please delete this e-mail and any attached files from all locations in your computer, server, network, etc., and notify the sender IMMEDIATELY at 502-327-9770. Any other use, re-creation, dissemination, forwarding, or copying of this e-mail and any attached files is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Receipt by anyone other than the named recipient(s) is not a waiver of any attorney-client, work product, or other applicable privilege. E-mail is an informal method of communication and is subject to possible data corruption, either accidentally or intentionally. Therefore, it is normally inappropriate to rely on legal advice contained in an e-mail without obtaining further confirmation of said advice.

Credit Score Information For Kentucky Home buyers

Credit Scores are important for getting approved for a Mortgage in Kentucky.


Credit Scores are important for getting approved for a Mortgage in Kentucky.

Credit Score Requirements for FHA, VA, USDA and Conventional Loans in Kentucky
Credit Score Requirements for FHA, VA, USDA and Conventional Loans in Kentucky

Below I have spelled out some info that will help you out when you look at your credit scores and what affects them and what you can do to help your credit scores in order to prepare for a mortgage loan approval when it comes to your credit scores.

  1. Opting out will help a credit score.
    No it won’t. The bureaus don’t know if someone has opted out or not and it’s not factored into the credit scores. If someone’s score improves after they have opted out it’s because something else has changed on the report but not because they opted out.
  2. Paying off old delinquencies will remove them from your credit report.
    No a collection account or an account with late payments will stay on a credit report for 7 years. That being said, the credit bureaus will occasionally go in and remove old collections that have not reported for a while. But that’s at their discretion. Just because you paid if off doesn’t mean it will be removed. Also paying off an older collection with then brings the reporting date current which could actually hurt the credit scores.
  3. All rate shopping inquiries are the same.
    If you are rate shopping for a mortgage or auto, all inquiries with Trans Union and Equifax have a 45 day window. For Experian however it’s only 15 days. For revolving inquiries there is no “shopping” period. All those inquiries are counted no matter what the time frame is.
  4. Opening new accounts will help your credit score.
    This will help only if the borrower has no established credit yet. Once you have several accounts, opening new ones will actually have a negative affect on a credit score until substantial history is accumulated on the account.
  5. Paying off all your revolving balances is a good thing!
    Actually no it’s not. The credit bureaus models like to see at least one revolving balance, even if it’s small. Having no revolving balances can actually have a negative impact on a credit score. So always keeping one account with a small balance is a very good idea.
  6. Your credit is affected by how much money you have in your savings or checking accounts.
    Neither of these are factored into a credit score.
  7. Closing old accounts will help a credit score.
    The credit scoring models like to see several open accounts that have zero balances and are not used often. When an account is closed you lose that history. If it’s an account you’ve had for a long time and has no late payments, closing it can actual hurt the credit score. Having several open accounts, even if they are not used much, makes it look like a person has good financial responsibility.
  8. When I check my own credit score it’s the same one used by lenders.
    Unfortunately no it’s not. A person actually has 69+ different credit scores. The ones that lenders use are completely different than what a borrower sees when they get their own scores. Those are personal scores and are not used by any industry for any reason.
  9. Checking my own credit report will hurt my score.
    When a consumer checks their own credit report it’s a “soft” inquiry and will not impact the scores. Only “hard” inquiries done by creditors when a consumer applies for a loan or credit card will possibly have a negative affect on a credit score.

It’s  possible to avoid paying for your credit score or at least an estimate. Here is a list of all of the well-known ways to get a FICO score or score estimate for free:

Free FICO credit scores:

For free estimates of your credit score estimates and credit monitoring:

Also see the Wikipedia page on free credit report websites.

Credit cards (no annual fee) that offer a free FICO score with their monthly statement or online:

  • Amazon Synchrony Store Card (TransUnion, FICO-08)
  • American Express (Experian, FICO-08)
  • Bank of America Cards (TransUnion, FICO-08)
  • Barclaycards including the Sallie Mae Mastercard (TransUnion, FICO)
  • Branded Citibank cards (Equifax, FICO-08)
  • Chase Slate (Experian, FICO)
  • Discover cards (Transunion, FICO-08)
  • FNBO Cards (Experian, FICO-08 Bankcard)
  • Walmart Store Card (TransUnion, FICO)
  • Wells Fargo Cards (FICO)

Deposit accounts that offer a free FICO score with their monthly statement:

  • Digital Credit Union (EQ-05: Mortgage Score)

Credit cards (no annual fee) that offer a free estimated credit score online:

  • Capital One credit cards (TransUnion, VantageScore 3.0)

Note that score ranges vary between FICO scores and other scores:

  • FICO: 300 to 850 (used in 85-90% of credit decisions)
  • VantageScore (used in 10-15% of credit decisions)
    • VantageScore pre-3.0: 501 to 990
    • VantageScore 3.0: 300 to 850
  • TransUnion New Account Score: 300 to 850 (score estimate)
  • Equifax: 280 to 850 (score estimate)
  • Experian: 330 to 830 (score estimate)
 

Image result for credit scores and mortgage loans

 
 
 
American Mortgage Solutions, Inc.
10602 Timberwood Circle Suite 3
Louisville, KY 40223
Company ID #1364 | MB73346
 


Text/call 502-905-3708
kentuckyloan@gmail.com

 
http://www.nmlsconsumeraccess.org/
 
If you are an individual with disabilities who needs accommodation, or you are having difficulty using our website to apply for a loan, please contact us at 502-905-3708.

Disclaimer: No statement on this site is a commitment to make a loan. Loans are subject to borrower qualifications, including income, property evaluation, sufficient equity in the home to meet Loan-to-Value requirements, and final credit approval. Approvals are subject to underwriting guidelines, interest rates, and program guidelines and are subject to change without notice based on applicant’s eligibility and market conditions. Refinancing an existing loan may result in total finance charges being higher over the life of a loan. Reduction in payments may reflect a longer loan term. Terms of any loan may be subject to payment of points and fees by the applicant  Equal Opportunity Lender. NMLS#57916http://www.nmlsconsumeraccess.org/

— Some products and services may not be available in all states. Credit and collateral are subject to approval. Terms and conditions apply. This is not a commitment to lend. Programs, rates, terms and conditions are subject to change without notice. The content in this marketing advertisement has not been approved, reviewed, sponsored or endorsed by any department or government agency. Rates are subject to change and are subject to borrower(s) qualification.

 

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Score Requirement on Kentucky FHA Loans for people with bad credit
Lowers Minimum Credit Score Requirement on Kentucky FHA Loans

Kentucky FHA Home loan programs for people with bad credit

FHA loans are designed to make housing more affordable with lower down payment requirements than conventional loans on purchases and less home equity requirements on refinances. Less stringent qualification guidelines and the security of a government-insured loan makes FHA a popular choice for consumers.

Kentucky FHA Loans with 580 Credit scores and – Low Down Payment – 3.5% which can be gifted from relatives or borrowed off one’s retirement account. If your scores is between 500-579, 10% down needed for home loan and subject to underwriting approval.

https://apps.elfsight.com/p/platform.js

 
Which Credit Score is used for a Kentucky Mortgage Loan Approval?
Credit score used for a Kentucky Mortgage Loan Approval for FHA, VA, USDA Rural Housing, KHC Down payment assistance FAnnie Mae
FICO Scores used for mortgages

A Complete Guide to Closing Costs in Kentucky

The post provides an extensive guide to understanding and managing closing costs in Kentucky. It details numerous closing cost types, including mortgage application fees, appraisal and inspection fees, legal costs, title search and insurance, homeowners insurance, realty transfer tax, escrow and recording fees, among others. Ways to pay for these costs are discussed, from paying in cash and rolling into the mortgage, to getting sellers or lenders to pay for the costs. It’s noted different lenders have varying terms, hence the importance of understanding the estimated costs provided by the lenders. Tools to help calculate the closing cost are shared.


Who  pays Closing costs in Kentucky?

How much is closing Costs in Kentucky?

A Complete Guide to Closing Costs.

closing costs in Kentucky
closing costs in Kentucky

 Complete Guide to Closing Costs in Kentucky

 

A Complete Guide to Closing Costs

Types of Closing Costs

Let’s talk briefly about the types of closing costs you might encounter and how much those costs tend to run. Understand that closing costs, especially tax-related costs, will vary widely depending on where you live. But some costs can be estimated based on national averages.
Also, you should know that with fluctuations in the real estate market, closing costs are also fluctuating. A 2012 US News article pointed out that closing costs dropped 7 percent over 2011-2012 to an average of about $3,754.
The drops are, in part, because of 2010 regulations that were put in place by the government to shield homebuyers from “closing cost sticker shock.” Now that lenders are better at estimating final closing costs, those costs are dropping naturally.
Still, the national average for closing costs is nearly $4,000, which isn’t pocket change for your average homebuyer. So where’s all that money going? Here are some of the closing costs you might have to pay, along with average costs, based on the Allstate Home Buyers Closing Cost Worksheet.
  • Mortgage Application FeeThis fee varies from lender to lender but usually is $200-$400. You don’t have to pay this fee when you’re shopping around for a mortgage, but you’ll probably pay it when your chosen lender is processing your application. Sometimes this fee is due ahead of closing.
  • Appraisal Fee: This fee can sometimes be paid by the seller but is normally paid by the buyer. Basically, the fee goes to a professional appraiser who will ensure that the bank isn’t lending you more money than a property is worth. It’ll cost $100-$400.
  • Building InspectionIf you need to hire a home, pest or other specialized inspector, you’ll have to pay the fee. Some lenders will require an inspection to make sure the property is in good condition. This fee runs $150-$400 on average.
  • Survey: This is a fee you’re likely to skip, though it’s required by commercial lenders. It is for a surveyor to check out the lot and the structures on it to ensure the boundaries are properly noted. It can cost $300-$450.
  • Legal FeesAlthough attorney fees will add extra to your bill, you may want to pay a professional to ensure that all the documentation for your home is in order. Some lenders will bring along their own attorney, but yours will ensure that your personal interests are protected. Legal fees can run $300-$600, depending on your attorney and what you’re requiring of him or her.
  • Title Search and Insurance: A title insurance company will ensure that the title to the home is free and clear — that no one else will have claims on it. Sometimes a title search is separate from title insurance and will cost $150-$200. Title insurance varies but is usually about 1 percent of the home price.
  • Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI): If you put less than 20 percent down on your home, you’ll likely have to pay PMI. The average PMI premium is 2.5 percent of the mortgage, though your premium will vary depending on the value of your home, your credit score and your down payment. If you need PMI, you’ll likely have to pay a portion of the premium at closing. (Note: If you’re getting an FHA, VA or RHS government-backed loan, you’ll pay something like PMI, but it will be paid to the guarantor.)
  • Homeowners InsuranceAll lenders will require that you carry homeowners insurance on a property as long as it’s mortgaged. Typically, you’ll have to pay the first year’s property insurance premium in advance. Sometimes you’ll pay the insurer directly, but other times you’ll pay at closing.
  • Prepaid Interest: This one can get a little complicated. Let’s say your mortgage payment is due on the 1st of every month, but you close on your new home on the 15th. If this is the case, the lender will calculate the interest you owe for those 15-16 days remaining in the month, and that interest payment will be due at closing. Sometimes the seller reimburses these costs, since it’s often in his or her best interest to close as soon as possible — before your first mortgage payment is due. These costs will depend on your mortgage amount, interest rate and the time between closing and your first payment coming due.
  • Points: Points are another form of prepaid interest, but they’re generally not required. You can pay, usually, from 0-4 points on your mortgage. One point equals 1 percent of the total mortgage principal. (If you’re taking out a $100,000 loan, a point is $1,000, for instance.) One point usually reduces your interest rate by 1/8 percent. If you choose to pay points (rather than increasing your down payment), you’ll do so at closing.
  • Escrow Fees: The majority of homeowners use an escrow system for paying real estate taxes, fire and flood insurance, homeowners insurance and PMI. The escrow account is held either by a third party or by your lender, depending on your circumstances, and it’s used to pay all of the annual or monthly premiums for these important homeownership-related items. When you close on your home, you’ll generally need to put around three months’ worth of escrowed fees in the account.
  • Realty Transfer Tax: The taxes you pay on transferring a property are similar to the taxes you pay when you buy a new (or new-to-you) vehicle. Taxes vary by your state and municipality.
  • Recording Fees: Your local government will have to record the purchase transaction of your new home, which will cost $40-$60, on average.
  • Prorated Expenses: Some of the lump-sum costs associated with your home — water bills, homeowner association fees, condominium fees, etc. — could be split between you and the seller during your transaction. If you buy a home midway through the year, for instance, you may need to pay 50 percent of these fees. These expenses will depend on when you buy your home and are often negotiable with the seller
 

 

Ways to Pay Closing Costs

There are several ways to pay closing costs. Start by getting a Good Faith Estimate and then figure out which option will work best for you.

Good Faith Estimate

According to the Federal Reserve, the Real Estate Settlement Procedures Act requires that a lender give you a “good faith estimate” of your closing costs within three business days of your submitting your loan application.
Basically, the Good Faith Estimate (GFE) is part of shopping around for a mortgage. Because different lenders will have different requirements, closing costs can vary widely. So before you choose a mortgage, carefully look over the GFE to find differences between lenders.
While federal regulations aiming for more transparency in home lending have made good faith estimates somewhat more accurate, you have to remember that it’s still an estimate.
Saving for closing costs is a “hope for the best, plan for the worst” situation. Try to figure out the most you’d have to pay in closing costs and be prepared to pay them (while still leaving some cash in reserves). But you should also find the best lender for your needs and reduce closing costs as much as possible.

Pay in cash

The easiest way to pay closing costs, of course, is cash. If you have enough money in savings to pay for your down payment and your closing costs and to have cash in reserves, this is often the best option.
Paying more closing costs keeps you from taking out a bigger loan and can save you money on mortgage interest, which may save you a fortune over the life of your loan.

Roll it into the mortgage

If you don’t have plenty of cash on hand, you can roll your closing costs into your mortgage. Because closing costs are generally a small amount of money compared with your overall mortgage, most lenders don’t mind rolling part or all of the closing costs into the loan.
However, you do have to be careful because rolling your closing costs into your mortgage may mean you can’t spend as much money on a house. For instance, if, based on your credit, your lender agrees to finance up to 90 percent of the value of a $150,000 home, they may not go over that loan-to-value ratio, even to roll in closing costs.
In this scenario, say you’ve agreed to put $15,000 (10 percent) down on a home worth $150,000. Your lender agrees to finance 90 percent of the home’s value, leaving a $135,000 mortgage. If you don’t have cash for the $5,000 in closing costs, you could ask the lender to roll that into your loan, making your mortgage $140,000.
But if the lender isn’t comfortable financing 95 percent of the home’s value (a very high loan-to-value ratio in the world of home lending), you may be out of luck. In this case, you might have to find a cheaper home so that you can pay a smaller down payment and have money left for closing costs.
One thing to note: many government-backed loans, like the FHA and VA loans, are set up specifically for first-time or lower-income home buyers, who often have trouble saving for a down payment and closing costs. Because of this, it’s common for these loans to roll closing costs into the mortgage and to finance even above 95 percent of the home’s value.

Ask the seller to pay some costs

This is easier to accomplish in a sluggish housing market, or any time the seller is ready to get out of the home ASAP. In some cases, the seller will take part of the closing costs out of the money they’re getting when they sell the home.
If you don’t have money to pay closing costs, this is a good way to save money without increasing your loan (and, thus, your monthly mortgage payments). And what’s the worst that can happen? The seller may just say no.

Ask the lender to pay closing costs

Sometimes a lender will pay your closing costs, even if they don’t roll them into your mortgage. For instance, your lender might just outright pay $4,000 toward your closing costs but then raise the interest rate on your loan by 0.25 percent or more. (They’re not in the habit of giving away free money, after all.)
You’ll need to make sure this doesn’t come back to bite you. Figure out how much that extra interest will cost you over the life of your loan, or at least the length of time you plan to be in the home, and see if this is a reasonable approach for you.

Borrow for your closing costs

Taking out a separate loan for a down payment is usually a no-no. Your main lender wants to be the only one to have a claim on your home if you should default.
However, you could take out an unsecured loan to cover closing costs. Just be careful here, as interest rates could really bite on a personal unsecured loan.

Find Out How Much to Expect in Closing Costs

That’s a lot of information, and, unfortunately, it doesn’t tell you exactly how much you’ll pay in closing costs. You may not know exact closing costs until you’re ready to close on your home, but you can get a good idea of these costs online by using these resources:
  • SmartClosing Calculator – This calculator from Zillow will calculate costs based on where you’re buying a home, so taxes and government fees will be added in. The calculator will also show you the total amount you can expect to pay in mortgage payments, including real estate taxes and homeowner’s insurance.
  • Federal Reserve Settlement Costs Worksheet – This worksheet is good for comparing potential mortgage. It lets you compare the closing costs for two loans.
  • How do closing costs impact my interest rate? – This calculator from Yahoo! Homes will show you how financing closing costs, as opposed to paying them in cash, will affect your mortgages’ interest rate.
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Joel Lobb
Mortgage Loan Officer
Individual NMLS ID #57916
 
American Mortgage Solutions, Inc.
10602 Timberwood Circle 
Louisville, KY 40223
Company NMLS ID #1364
 
 

Text/call:      502-905-3708

 

fax:            502-327-9119

email:
          kentuckyloan@gmail.com
 
 

 

The view and opinions stated on this website belong solely to the authors, and are intended for informational purposes only. The posted information does not guarantee approval, nor does it comprise full underwriting guidelines. This does not represent being part of a government agency. The views expressed on this post are mine and do not necessarily reflect the view of my employer. Not all products or services mentioned on this site may fit all people. NMLS ID# 57916, (www.nmlsconsumeraccess.org). Mortgage loans only offered in Kentucky.
 
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What are the Kentucky FHA Credit Score Requirements for 2020 Mortgage Loan Approvals?


If you are looking to refinance your mortgage loan, you’ll want to be prepared to meet your lender’s criteria and educate yourself about your FICO® Scores as they are the credit scores most commonly used in the mortgage refinancing process.

As there are different versions of the FICO Score, it’s important that you focus on the FICO Score versions used in mortgage lending. It’s highly likely that the following FICO Score versions will be pulled on all mortgage loan applicants and from all three credit bureaus:

FICO Score 5 based on Equifax data
FICO Score 2 based on Experian data
FICO Score 4 based on TransUnion data
You can access the scores along with the top reasons why the scores are not higher at myFICO. Focusing your credit actions on these top reasons could help you to understand your scores and gain access to more attractive rates.

You can now focus on those mortgage-related versions in your FICO Score explanation report with confidence knowing they are the same versions your mortgage lender will likely access in the refinance loan review process.

1. Based on $300,000 mortgage loan with fixed interest rate of 4.5% and 30-yr term

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Louisville Kentucky Mortgage Loans

via What are the Kentucky FHA Credit Score Requirements for 2020 Mortgage Loan Approvals?

If you are looking to refinance your mortgage loan, you’ll want to be prepared to meet your lender’s criteria and educate yourself about your FICO® Scores as they are the credit scores most commonly used in the mortgage refinancing process.

As there are different versions of the FICO Score, it’s important that you focus on the FICO Score versions used in mortgage lending. It’s highly likely that the following FICO Score versions will be pulled on all mortgage loan applicants and from all three credit bureaus:

FICO Score 5 based on Equifax data
FICO Score 2 based on Experian data
FICO Score 4 based on TransUnion data
You can access the scores along with the top reasons why the scores are not higher at myFICO. Focusing your credit actions on these top reasons could help you…

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